By Melinda Myers You don’t need a prairie or large lot to attract and support pollinators. A meadow or informal, formal and even container gardens can bring in bees, butterflies and hummingbirds to help pollinate plants. It’s just a matter of selecting the right plants, adjusting your maintenance practices, and skipping the pesticides. Create your garden by converting a few square feet of lawn, garden bed or front yard into a pollinator-friendly garden. You may want to start by switching out part of an existing garden or container to more pollinator-friendly flowers. Expand your planting options by converting a portion of your lawn into a pollinator garden. Outline the bed with a hose or rope. Remove the sod, add compost as needed to improve drainage and you’ll be ready to plant. Simplify and dress up your efforts by using an easy-to-assemble raised garden kit like the Pollinator Garden Bed (gardeners.com). Its long-lasting cedar planks slide into aluminum corners to create a hexagonal bed. Get creative while increasing the garden’s size by adding additional sections to create a honeycomb or other interesting design. Mark the outline of the raised bed you select. Cut the grass short and cover with newspaper. Set your raised bed in place and fill with a quality planting mix. Mulch four to six inches surrounding the raised bed for ease of mowing and to eliminate the need to hand trim. Once your planting bed is prepared, you’re ready to plant. Include single daisy-like black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, and asters that allow visiting insects to rest and warm when sipping on nectar or dining on pollen. Add a few tubular flowers for butterflies and hummingbirds. They both like bright colors and can be seen visiting salvias, penstemon and nasturtiums. And don’t forget the bees that are attracted to…
By OTC Staff ‘My love is like a red, red rose, that’s newly sprung in June…Scottish bard, Robbie Burns ‘Sweet flowers alone can say what passion fears revealing’ Thomas Hood While we realize that this column is normally dedicated to what we all should be doing during the month of February to ensure a beautiful garden during the rest of the year, we are stepping outside the box with a piece about the meaning of many of the flowers that you have growing or plan to grow this season. In the spirit of the season, we all recognize the red rose as the ultimate flower symbol of love. A red rose is the traditional romantic gift given to your love on Valentine’s Day, however, different rose colors can send other messages. Some of which are listed below: Red – True love White – I love you not Yellow – Jealousy Pink – Innocent love and happiness Orange – I love you vigorously Purple – I will love you forever Wild rose – Uncontrollable desire Moss rose – I admire you from afar The following information was garnered from several sources that may be a bit subjective since not all of the “experts” tend to agree on some of the meanings; however, we hope you find the information entertaining and enlightening in some fashion. For hundreds of years flowers have held hidden meanings, derived from mythology, folklore, religious and historical symbolism. The floral bouquet you send or receive brings a special coded message, depending on the flowers you choose. The study of the meaning of flowers is an actual science known as floriography, and it reveals an extra underlying meaning to sending or receiving flowers – subtle and secret messages can be passed through the different blooms. During the 18th century…
By Elaine Cole …Over 58 million Americans watch the birds and many of them have read or heard that feeding birds in the winter is B-A-D and does more harm than good. Perpetuated myths say feeding birds during fall and winter can prevent timely migrations or cause birds to depend on feeders rather than foraging for food themselves- then the myth jumps to, if you stop feeding birds in winter, they’ll starve to death??!! That is FAR from the truth, and those 58 some-odd million people who have a vested interest in bird watching (and feeding!) should know they are not hurting the birds by feeding them in cold weather! The fact of the matter is, winter may be the most important time to leave feeders up, stocked with seed. Leaving feeders up through winter will not keep migratory birds from flying to warmer climates, instead full feeders will supplement natural food sources for migrating birds and birds that don’t migrate (resident birds), won’t be forced to scour for food all winter long. I will say that to feed or not to feed in cold weather, IS an age-old question –BUT- the truth is these are myths and feeding birds is actually beneficial to their well-being. Birds migrate regardless of seed in feeders. It’s estimated that wild birds only get 25 percent of food from feeders, the rest is naturally sourced, so full feeders don’t keep birds from migrating. Instead, several triggers urge birds to migrate; like changes in nesting locations as trees lose leaves, less natural food sources, insect decline, winds, temperature drop, and day length. As days grow shorter, many birds get internally restless and head south, taking advantage of lots of natural food sources, and (hopefully!) stocked feeders to help fuel their long flights ahead. During cold weather, resident birds that don’t migrate, need extra…
By Dr. Gary Chastagner and Dr. Eric Hinesley Use lots of water! When a Christmas tree is cut, more than half its weight is water. With proper care, you can maintain the quality of your tree. Below are a number of tips on caring for your tree: -Displaying trees in water in a traditional reservoir type stand is the most effective way of maintaining their freshness and minimizing needle loss problems. -To display the trees indoors, use a stand with an adequate water holding capacity for the tree. As a general rule, stands should provide 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter. Devices are available that help maintain a constant water level in the stand. -Use a stand that fits your tree. Avoid whittling the sides of the trunk down to fit a stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed. -Make a fresh cut to remove about a 1/2-inch thick disk of wood from the base of the trunk before putting the tree in the stand. Make the cut perpendicular to the stem axis. Don’t cut the trunk at an angle, or into a v-shape, which makes it far more difficult to hold the tree in the stand and also reduces the amount of water available to the tree. -Drilling a hole in the base of the trunk does NOT improve water uptake. -Once home, place the tree in water as soon as possible. Most species can go 6 to 8 hours after cutting the trunk and still take up water. Don’t bruise the cut surface or get it dirty. If needed, trees can be temporarily stored for several days in a cool location. Place the freshly cut trunk in a bucket that is kept full…
The Fruits Some years are better than others, but if you plant enough varieties, you’re bound to get something delicious in return. Apples. Pears. Peaches. Blueberries. Blackberries. Raspberries. Grapes. Pumpkin. Onions. Tomatoes. Leeks. It’s easy to make pies from many of the autumn harvests. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the mix, even try odd, but delicious combinations like pumpkin and grapes, or onion and apples; make it savory with some sauteed chicken with garlic, applesauce, a squeeze of lemon and a touch of whisky or pernod. Yarrow in the American Landscape Believed to be both a plant foretelling the future and a medicine, the Yarrow plant falls into that strange category of ubiquitous or ‘common’ plants that brings centuries of migration and cohabitation to light. Yarrow lives all over the world, and has become a companion plant for countless cultures. Fifty-eight stalks are needed to ask a question of the ancient Chinese oracle, the I Ching. It is easy to harvest your Yarrow for this purpose and properly prepared bundles of fifty-eight stalks make great gifts. In the Americas, different traditions portend and retell a time when the Yarrow stalks are drying in the foothill sun, giving us the color and feel of Thanksgiving and plenty seed for next year. During the gold rush in the West, including the mineral rich rivers of the Sierra and Northern California’s Trinity and Klammath river canyons, Chinese workers and artisans would gather the yarrow each autumn for philosophical activities. With extremely strong cultural ties to ancient traditions of profound thought and artistic accomplishment, finding, gathering and using an ancient companion plant in a new land was one of the simple ways to help keep the community close even in times of strife and uncertainty. The landscapes we live in are all too…
by Bob Matthews Going out to a pumpkin patch to pick pumpkins, is a fun filled rite of the fall season. Whether you go out to a field filled with pumpkins, or get them from a roadside stand, we want to be certain that you get the absolutely best pumpkin for carving, decorating and eating! Pumpkins are called “Long keepers”. A healthy, uncarved pumpkin can last to Thanksgiving and beyond. How to Select the Perfect Pumpkin: -Select a pumpkin that is completely orange. A partially green pumpkin might not ripen any further. -Size is an important factor. Medium pumpkins are best for pumpkin carving. Small pumpkins are better for cooking. -Do not pick a pumpkin that is too big for you to carry, especially if you have back problems. -Does the shade of orange matter? If so, there are hundreds of varieties, some with different shades of orange. -Selecting the shape is a matter of personal preference. Some like ’em tall. Others, like ’em round. -Often, people select shapes to fit the carving patterns they will use. Pick your pattern before you go. -Do not lift or carry a pumpkin by its stem. The pumpkin stem gives it character. -A ripe pumpkin has a hard shell that does not dent or scratch easily when pressing on it with a thumbnail. Do this on the back or bottom of the fruit…….never on the face. -Examine the entire pumpkin carefully for soft spots. If you find even one soft spot, go on to the next pumpkin. -Check the pumpkin for cracks and splits. If you find one, examine it to be sure it is not turning into a soft spot or has mold inside of the crack. -Look for bugs and insects. Specifically, look for holes in the pumpkin, which are indicative…
By Jacqueline Murphy It’s September already and your garden may be looking a little fatigued, which is entirely natural. Soon it will be time to put it to bed for its winter rest. This does not mean, however, that you should toss aside your tools and put up your feet for the season. Whether your garden consists of a window box or two or a spacious yard, there is work to be done yet. If you must take a rest before starting on the more arduous tasks to hand, use that quiet time to cast a discerning eye upon the fruits of your labor to date. I like to assess the previous growing season and mentally catalog what worked well, what didn’t, what needs to be divided, pruned, etc., and start thinking about what I want to accomplish next year. Refresh worn-out plantings. September is also a good time to consider sprucing up a tired design with some late season color, either by adding some annuals (pansies, snapdragons, stock, ornamental kale) perennials (asters, mums, ornamental grasses), or woody plants that will offer some structure and visual interest into the winter months (camellia, beautyberry, hypericum, oakleaf hydrangea). Do your research. No idea what these plants look like, you say? Looking at photos in books and on the Internet is nice but it’s so much better to see the plants in situ in a well-tended garden. If you live in Alexandria, you won’t have far to go. Chances are very good that there are some fabulous gardens on your street. Most gardeners I know are delighted to show off their handiwork and discuss their triumphs with admirers so trot over and chat them up. If you’re too shy to quiz your neighbors about their horticultural endeavors, head to the nearest garden center…
By Melinda Myers All your hard work is paying off with a bountiful harvest. Fresh produce is filling your garden, countertops, and refrigerator while the garden keeps producing more. Preserve some of your harvest to enjoy throughout the winter with some tried-and-true or updated variation of food preservation techniques. Hanging bundles of herbs to dry is a long-time practice that works. Harvest herbs in the morning just after the dew has dried off the leaves. Rinse, allow them to dry, and remove any damaged or dried leaves. Gather the dry herbs into small bundles and secure with a rubber band. Use a spring-type clothespin to hang the bundles from a clothesline or hanger in a warm, dry, airy place out of direct sunlight. A modern twist on this tradition is the space-saving Stack!t Herb Drying Rack (gardeners.com) hung from the ceiling. You will be able to dry large quantities of herbs in any narrow, out-of-the-way space. Extend the life, flavor, and nutritional value of squash with proper harvesting and storage. Only store blemish- and damage-free fruits and vegetables to reduce the risk of mold and decay developing during storage. Harvest zucchini when the fruit is six to eight inches long and scalloped squash when three to six inches in diameter. Store these in a plastic bag inside the vegetable crisper drawer in your refrigerator for several days. Wait to harvest winter squash when the fruit is full-sized, and the rinds are firm and glossy. The portion touching the ground turns from cream to orange when the fruit is ripe. Use a pruner to harvest the fruit, leaving a one-inch stem on each fruit. Cure all winter squash, except for acorn, in a warm, humid location. Then move to a cool, dry, well-ventilated area to store for several months. In the…
Thanks to our friends at GardenHelper.com, here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking it’s best for the rest of this season as well as what you can do to make sure your garden comes back in full force next spring. We have been utilizing the “expertise” of these “experts” off and on for several years. Watering The amount of water that your garden will need is going to depend on the weather conditions in your area. The primary rule of summer watering is to water thoroughly and deeply each time and to allow the soil dry out between waterings. Deep watering will allow the plant’s roots to grow deeper, where they are less likely to dry out, as well as the added benefit of anchoring the plant into the ground better. Light, surface watering actually wastes water, because the water never actually reaches the root zone of the plant, and the moisture rapidly evaporates from the top inch of soil. The best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a trowel or shovel and dig down a few inches. The soil should be moist at least 3 or 4 inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root zone of the plants. Of course, if you planted drought resistant plants in your garden, you won’t have to water as often, but the principal of deep watering still applies. As the weather dries out, your container plants may need daily watering, especially if the pots are exposed to the drying sunlight. Push your finger into the soil in your container plantings at least once a day (more often on hot, dry days) to feel for moisture and be certain that plants are…
By Melinda Myers Summer means time spent gardening and relaxing with friends. And just like the kitchen in winter, the patio or deck tends to be the gathering spot when the weather turns warm. Get the most from this space with a bit of preseason planning and decorating. Select functional and beautiful furnishings to create a special spot for you, family and friends to enjoy whenever the weather allows. First, sketch out the space and measure the dimensions of all furnishings you are considering, making sure they will fit. Allow extra space for people to pull chairs in and out from the table and navigate around furnishings, preferably 3 to 4 feet. Next, select a table that fits the space and provides ample serving space. An extension table allows you to expand your surface if a few more folks drop by. A round folding table provides space for guests, and it can be stashed against the wall when workspace is needed. Small and large-space gardeners will enjoy the benefits of elevated gardens with built-in trellises. These maximize growing space even on a small deck or patio and bring the garden to the party. Look for self-watering planters and especially those with wheels so you can easily move them out of the way of a family gathering or closer to the kitchen for easy harvesting. Include a multifunctional piece like a potting bench. Look for a versatile and well-built, furniture-quality piece like that complements other furnishings and can be used as a serving surface when entertaining. Consider features like a faucet for washing and watering that drains into a bucket or the ground, as well as hooks for hanging tools and baskets and space for storage. Bring nature to your door and mask unwanted background noise with the soothing sound of…
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