By Scott Dicken With around 25,000 residents Ganvié, lovingly referred to as the ‘Venice of Africa’, is the largest stilted water settlement in Africa, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Visiting this wonderful place is a highlight of a visit to Benin’s commercial capital, Cotonou. Ganvié is 10 miles north of Cotonou and sits on Lake Nokoue; extending out several kilometers into the shallow waters. It’s a fascinating place to grab a glimpse in to the rare life of a water-dweller, and to learn more about the circumstances that led so many people to seek refuge in such an isolated setting only accessible by small motorized boats and wooden canoes. The Legend In a blend of heroic legend, saddening facts, and no small amount of creative license, our story, dear readers, begins . . . In the 18th century, the King of Ganvié sought to protect his people, the Tofinu, from Fon slavers. To protect his people, the King of Ganvié was forced to order them to flee. And flee they did. For many a day and night they journeyed until they met the shores of Lake Nokoué and could go no further. Possibly footsore and definitely now trapped, the desperate King transformed himself into an egret (or possibly a hawk – it seems to depend on who is telling the story) and swooped across the lake until he spotted a habitable island holding promise of safety. However, the Tofinu were not a people who could simply swim to this new island with all their possessions. Now slightly annoyed, the King of Ganvié transformed yet again – only this time he became a crocodile – and carried his people across the lake on his own back. When the marauding Fon slavers reached the edge of Lake…
By Scott Dicken Are you feeling adventurous? Does driving in South Africa not quench your thirst because it isn’t adventurous enough? Are other tourist hotspots like Zambia and Botswana too much too soon? If the answers to all these questions are ‘yes,’ then Namibia might just be the right place for you to shake off the shackles of organized overlanding and hit the open road on a self-drive tour. Namibia is a fantastic place for a first-timer experiencing southern Africa: its tourist infrastructure is well-developed, and you won’t struggle to find both budget and high-end accommodation along any of the routes you might pick. An entire tourist industry has sprung up in Namibia around the adventurous self-driver, and you’ll find plenty of resources and local companies able to support your planning and booking process (although you won’t necessarily need them). The major car rental companies all operate out of Windhoek’s international airport and provide basic Namibia-specific driver training before you leave. Also, the road infrastructure is as simple as they come, meaning it’s near impossible to get lost. Where to go: A simple ‘self-drive Namibia’ google search will immediately give you an abundance of ideas of possible routes. The most popular tends to be a classic route encompassing Windhoek, Sossusvlei, Swakopmund, Damaraland, Etosha National Park and Okinjima in that order. Here’s why: The Classic self-drive route is designed to make sure that you get a well-rounded tour of the country taking in most of the main sights and activities. In Sossusvlei, you get the world-famous dunes; Swakopmund is the capital of adventure where you can kayak with seals in the ocean and go sand-boarding; Damaraland gives you the opportunity to search for rare desert-adapted elephants and rhinos whilst relaxing in luxury lodges; Etosha is the most famous of Namibia’s game…
By Scott Dicken Overlanding Adventures! I’m a traveler that can’t sit still for more than 10 minutes. I love being on the go and want to maximize my time. Seeing as much as feasibly possible on every trip is a primary objective. Overlanding, best described as a self (or group)-reliant adventure to remote destinations where the journey is the primary goal, is a great way to achieve this; you only spend a couple of days in each place, and you get to meet new people; an extrovert’s dream. My overland adventures have taken several different forms including boats, motorized rickshaws, and rental cars; but for this particular article I’m focusing on my adventures in Africa on overland trucks. There’s something special about overland trucking in Africa. Driving through remote villages and setting up camp as the sun goes down each day has a special allure. The best news is that over the past 10-15 years there’s been a proliferation of companies offering overland experiences, which has substantially driven down prices. However, overlanding isn’t for everyone; before booking you should know more about what overlanding is, research companies in detail and make sure you pick one that best meets your particular style. In this article, we start that research together. The Pros of Overland Trucking in Africa Scenery and Sunsets: You’ll get to see parts of Africa that the average tourist doesn’t visit, wake up to some of the best sunrises, and watch some of the best sunsets anywhere in the World. New Experiences: Getting off the beaten path means you’ll experience a style of holiday, and a style of activities, you don’t normally experience on typical package holidays. You could be hot air ballooning above the Masai Mara one minute and white water rafting the Nile the next. Overland trips…
By Scott Dicken If you’re heading to Kathmandu, then there’s a strong chance you’ve booked yourself on to a trekking holiday in the Himalayas. The capital city is the primary entry point into Nepal before your onward journey takes you deeper into the country where the brunt of your Himalayan adventure really begins. As a result, in Kathmandu you’ll often find hordes of likeminded hikers frequenting the cafes and awkwardly gathering with their tour groups for the first time before proceeding to spend two weeks camping in close confines. To many of these tour groups Kathmandu serves a clear purpose; a jumping off point that provides tour leaders a good way to gather the entire group in one place before setting off. Some tours even have 24-48 hours in Kathmandu touring the more popular tourist sites before hopping back on a plane to Pokhara or Lukla. With this in mind, and assuming you can spare the extra days off work (we can all dream), then my advice is to set aside 4 days for exploring Kathmandu under your own steam before joining up with your tour group. Whether you’re on a trekking adventure or not, I’ll highlight a basic itinerary that’ll make sure you can capture as much of the spirit, culture and history that Kathmandu Valley has to offer. Day 1 You’ll arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport after a potentially long flight and probably want nothing more than a shower and some much deserved relaxation (this is a holiday after all). Kathmandu City can be a little hectic after a long day traveling, so head directly out of the city and spend the night in Nagarkot – a small Hill Station nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas about an hour’s drive from the airport. The Club Himalaya…
By Scott Dicken With such a big, wide world to explore Mongolia, the least densely populated country on earth, doesn’t often appear on the bucket lists of many people. In fact, beyond its capital city, Ulaanbaatar, most folks (myself included until I started visiting quite regularly) would struggle to name any noteworthy sights. Instead, what probably springs to mind are images of Genghis Khan, the Khangan of the Mongol Empire; who from his birth in 1162 until his death in 1227 managed to establish the largest empire the world has ever seen – somewhere around 11 million square miles. On my most recent trip to Mongolia I was therefore pleased to discover that one of Ulaanbaatar’s classic day trip itineraries incorporated the opportunity to visit one of Mongolia’s top tourist destinations, Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, in addition to learning more about Mongolia’s most famous son at the Genghis Khan Statue Complex. Genghis Khan Statue Complex Located 50km outside Ulaanbaatar, the Genghis Khan Statue Complex was our first stop of the day. The 132-ft tall equestrian statue which is, as we were repeatedly reminded, the largest in the World (as if there’s a long list of gigantic equestrian statues to choose from) came into view from miles away – its giant stainless-steel metallic frame glinting in the sun. Put simply, this isn’t your average ‘man on horse’ statue – seeing as it cost $4.1 million to build and consists of 250 tons of steel I guess it needs to have a certain gravitas. Now I know what you’re probably thinking; why on earth has the Government of Mongolia sanctioned the construction of a statue that honors a brutal dictator most commonly identified in the western hemisphere as a man who massacred civilian populations and led a horde of savages that terrorized half…
By Scott Dicken – Photos by Scott Dicken The classic African safari naturally conjures images of rugged wilderness and vast open savannah teeming with wildlife. Thankfully, gone are the days of glamourous elites donning safari suits and pith helmets to hunt big game with a blunderbuss (a la Jumanji). Instead, the last few decades have seen the rise of the African Safari for even the most budget-conscious of travelers. Whilst you might not be able, or willing, to afford the five-star, all-inclusive, safari lodge you’ve seen on TV, there are a myriad of budget options in all the major game reserves across sub-Saharan Africa. For those who haven’t been on safari before, there is a natural inclination to immediately think of Kenya and Tanzania- undoubtedly two of the best African safari options available – but other options abound. This month I explore 5 of the best destinations for anyone seeking a true safari adventure. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: South Luangwa is my number one pick for a few reasons. Unfortunately, if you’re on a budget and don’t want to pay for a fly-in safari then I can personally attest to the fact that it’s a bit of drive to get there with a possible overnight stay in Chipata on the way. But therein lies the reason why Luangwa is number one. The long drive (or higher cost) means that it remains off the list of the more touristy national parks. Fewer visitors mean that Luangwa has a more remote, wilderness feel, and you can easily go for an hour without seeing another game vehicle. Unlike the Masai Mara, where if you find a big cat, you’ll have 25 other game vehicles parked next to you within 5 minutes, I sat parked under a tree watching a leopard for an…
By Scott Dicken Whenever I find myself writing about a new travel destination, I nearly always add a market to the list of places I recommend visiting. I find markets, unless they are specifically designed for tourists, a great way to learn more about a destination and its culture. As a result, I tend to find myself drawn towards them. With that in mind, this month I thought I’d share my favorite world markets. The results include night markets, food markets, the largest market in the world, a traditional souk, and a floating market. All-in-all, a well-rounded selection to cater to all tastes. Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey: The Grand Bazaar is exactly as you imagine it to be – the screaming of stall vendors, the smell of incense and spice permeating the air, and a labyrinth of streets. With over 4,000 vendors spread across 60 streets I guess you could say the Grand Bazaar is a shopper’s paradise. The most important thing to remember is to shop around and haggle hard, but also consider arriving early in the morning when the sellers are most worried about meeting their daily quotas. Chatuchak Weekend Market, Bangkok, Thailand: Reportedly the largest market in the World, and served by both the Bangkok BTS and MRT rail services, the market has an almost cult status amongst tourists. With over 15,000 stalls, and 200,000 visitors each week, it may seem a daunting task. However, the chaotic nature of the market melts away as you browse the huge selection of street foods, art, antiques and fashion. Be prepared to get lost, be prepared to not get the greatest of bargains, but also be prepared for a visual and sensory overload that makes it all worthwhile. Jemaa El Fnaa, Marrakech, Morocco: During the day, Jemaa El Fnaa square…
By Scott Dicken I travel quite frequently; primarily for work and less occasionally (unfortunately) for pleasure to both major currency countries (USD, EUR, GBP, JPY) and exotic currency locations across Africa, Asia and South America. As a result, I’m quite often, and increasingly, subject to the whims of exchange rate fluctuation. As the majority of my travel is for work it’s less of a problem; after all, I’m not ultimately footing the bill. However, with the wild swings in currency we’ve seen recently this issue is becoming an increasing problem (and will likely continue to be so) for the average tourist. In-country local currency costs can be a significant portion of your trip cost; especially if big ticket items like hotels are to be paid in local currency when you arrive. So, what exactly are your options for trying to minimize the risks associated with currency fluctuation? In this post I’ll examine a few remedies I use. I’m no financial markets expert, but hopefully some practical laymen’s guidance that doesn’t involve a broker-level understanding of futures trading might be of some use on your next big (or small in the current foreign exchange markets) trip: It’s all about timing: So, you’ve booked a trip and you’re a few months out from departure (or a year if you’re one of those organized bargain hunters). OK, I said no futures trading complexities, but simple foresight would suggest that planning your currency purchase in advance is probably a decent idea. Look at historical trends against the currency you’re purchasing (take a look at oanda.com or xe.com) and if you see a good deal then pull the trigger and buy – especially at times like present when the dollar is so strong. If you’re really risk adverse, then you could buy in smaller batches…
By Scott Dicken With over 12,000 temples registered across the country, it’s fair to say that religion plays a vital role in everyday life in Taiwan. In terms of pure numbers, Taiwan has one of the highest temple per capita ratios in the world. To put that statement into perspective, there are more registered temples than there are convenience stores in Taiwan (a statistic that I’m sure has the senior management team at 7-11 quaking in their boots). That doesn’t only mean that the Taiwanese population practices a large number of common faiths in peaceful harmony (although that statement is certainly true). It also means that they take those faiths and mix them up with a hodge-podge of religious and spiritual beliefs that often overlap with native ‘folk religions’. This diversification means that a trip to Taiwan could have you visiting temples honoring Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Christianity, Islam, Mormonism, and Hinduism, in addition to the worship of divine figures as diverse as Mazu, the Earth God, and the Electric-Technco Neon Gods (yes, that’s really a thing and has nothing to do with rave music). All in all, ‘religiously diverse’ is probably a good way to describe Taiwan and this is appropriately reflected in the temples of Taiwan’s capital city, Taipei. So, saddle up and take a quick tour of some of Taipei’s temples with me. Mengjia Longshan Temple Longshan Temple, built in 1738, is probably the most famous of Taipei’s multi-denominational temples. In my opinion this isn’t necessarily because of the temple’s size or because of any particularly exciting architectural characteristics. Instead, the real draw for me is the atmosphere. I’ve visited Longshan on two separate occasions and both times it was my favorite place in the city (in fact on my last visit I spent an hour standing in…
By Scott Dicken Rolling landscapes framed by the Alps, viniculture to rival anywhere on earth and gastronomical delights of such quality that it prompted the birth of the Slow Food Movement; Northern Italy may not draw the same number of visitors that descend upon Tuscany but spending a few days in the fertile hills between Turin and Milan doesn’t disappoint. Best get there soon though as the secret is now well and truly out! The Piedmont Region The Piedmont Region of Northern Italy is the country’s second largest of twenty regions but could easily be described as the forgotten child – particularly when compared to Italy’s other notable tourist regions of Tuscany, Venice, Rome, Sicily, Lombardy and Puglia. Its comparatively lowly tourist status belies the wealth of riches the region has to offer: from Lake Maggiore in the north and Olympic grade ski resorts in the Alpine west to the culture of its largest city, Turin. All of this lies nestled at the very foot of the Alps which frames views of rolling hills and vineyards saturated with colours that change throughout the seasons and are coated with snow and fog in the winter. Even more importantly, Piedmont is world renowned for its acclaimed grapes and wines and is a major producer of luxury cheese and chocolate (Nutella and Ferrero Roche both coming from the region). Food aficionados are drawn from all across the globe to feast on Alba’s white truffles at the annual October Truffle Festival (Tartufi Bianchi) and to sample the “king of Italian red wine”, Barolo. Wash all of that down with sparkling white wines from the neighboring village of Asti (a mere 30km from Alba) and you’ll soon find yourself in a glorious food and wine haze from which you’ll never wish to emerge. On a…
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