By Timothy Long

I had never spent time in Louisville. I had driven by it. My dad and I once stopped at Churchill Downs to bet on a few races, but that was forever ago. When my wife Leigh and I are in that area, we are usually in Lexington where her brother lives. I love Lexington. It’s a beautiful quaint little city. I’ve written about its charms in this column. However, Louisville is different. It’s also charming, but in its own special way. Plus, the Bourbon Trail begins there. Who could ask for more?

We traveled there recently for the Bourbon Classic, the best bourbon event in the world. We stayed at one of America’s classic hotels, the Seelbach, a beautiful historic hotel right in downtown Louisville. The Seelbach was a social hub in the early 1900s that attracted celebrities, politicians, and even gangsters. Al Capone is said to have frequented the hotel, using it as a discreet meeting place while conducting bootlegging operations throughout the region. F. Scott Fitzgerald, one of my favorite writers, visited the Seelbach in the early 1920s. The hotel’s opulent Grand Ballroom is widely believed to have inspired scenes in The Great Gatsby.

Once we settled in, it was time to check out the bar and have a bourbon. Before you judge, it was well after noon, by at least ten or fifteen minutes. And Louisville is known as Bourbon City. We head downstairs and into the Old Seelbach bar. It’s a beautiful classic bar that feels closer to a pre-Prohibition lounge than a modern cocktail bar. It’s dark woods, polished brass, and slightly hushed ambiance envelope you as you enter. Then you see it, the whiskey selection. As is common in Louisville, the entire back of the bar is row after row of great whiskeys, mainly bourbons. The first page of their menu clearly states “Pouring 152 Bourbons for 110 Years. Sip some history.” The deep connection to the city’s bourbon culture really defines this bar.

We immediately order the Seebach Old Fashion. The old fashion is a staple in Louisville, and it’s our favorite way to begin an evening. This classic drink has an interesting history. In the early 1800s, the word “cocktail” was defined as a simple mixture of spirits, sugar, water, and bitters. One of the earliest printed references to this style appears in 1806 in a publication called The Balance and Columbian Repository. As the 19^th century rolled around, bartenders began experimenting—adding liqueurs, absinthe, and other ingredients to cocktails. Traditionalists started asking for their drinks to be made the “old-fashioned way,” and the name stuck. The Seelbach’s version is made with Makers Mark or Bourbon Barrel 14-year bourbon, fresh oranges, cherries, sugar, and bitters. We chose the Bourbon Barrel 14-year. To say it was delicious would be a laughable understatement.

That night’s dinner was at Steak and Bourbon, just a few blocks down the road in the city’s Entertainment District. It was highly recommended by our bartender. By the way, bartenders almost always have great dining recommendations. The atmosphere was great. It was modern but still had that elegant “clubby” classic steak house feel that I love. And of course, a great bourbon selection. As tempting as another bourbon was, I had to take it easy. We were doing a barrel pick the next morning (see last month’s issue). So, I needed to be a good boy. All of their steaks are Certified Angus Beef. We split the NY Strip and a bottle of Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which were fantastic.

Friday’s lunch was at Merril’s Country Kitchen. This place has a honkytonk vibe and a menu of great comfort food. If you like fried chicken, Merril’s is a must visit spot. I devoured mine. I also figured it was time to try a local craft beer. I ordered a Goodwood Louisville Lager. The name is an obvious nod to Louisville’s baseball bat heritage. A real land beer, this lager is brewed with 100% Kentucky Grown grains. On the nose, it has light grain and some corn sweetness. The first sip delivers a crisp, clean body with mild malt sweetness and very low bitterness. At 4.2% ABV, it’s a perfect lunch beer.

Friday evening was The Bourbon Classic’s Culinary Night. It featured top chefs from Louisville pairing their food with drinks made from classic Kentucky bourbons. Almost every big brand name in the bourbon industry was there. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. One amusing note, the dress was “business casual.” Leigh was wearing a lovely dress, I was in khaki pants, a polo shirt, and a blue blazer. But some attendees, not all attendees, were wearing blue jeans, t-shirts, ball caps, and work boots that were not in prime condition or cleanliness. I guess “business casual” has a different meaning for some Kentuckians.

Saturday, we chose to walk around the city a bit. Lunch was at Doc Crow’s Southern Smokehouse & Raw Bar.  Housed in a restored 19th-century warehouse, this place has a warm, historic charm with exposed brick and a buzzing, high-energy atmosphere. The cuisine is southern, with a mix of slow-smoked barbecue and fresh seafood. Our oysters were fantastic.  And as we found everywhere, there was a great bourbon program. Needing to try one of their old fashions from their list, we ordered The Greatest Old Fashioned; Four Roses Bourbon, Demerara simple syrup, and their house bitters. It was a wonderful drink.

After lunch, we headed down the street to the Old Forester Distillery. I had to see Big Penny, the massive forty-four-foot-tall copper column still running vertically through multiple floors of the building. It’s a Louisville legend and is not just for show, it’s a working still where the fermented mash is distilled into new spirits. This is where I discovered the Old Forester 117 Series Bourbon, last month’s featured bourbon.

There are bourbon barrel heads at almost every bar and restaurant in Louisville. Barrel picked bourbons are featured in most establishments. I could write a series of articles on that one great aspect of the city. Prohibition is referred to everywhere. Its repeal is when Louisville started to become the wonderful city that it is. Do yourself a favor and take a trip to Bourbon City. You will not regret it. The flight is short, the people are friendly, and the bourbon is great. Try to go The Bourbon Classic in February. If you are there on Saturday night, you might just see my wife and I tasting great bourbons. And if you do, feel free to join us. We do love good company. Cheers!

About the Author: Timothy Long is an educator, writer, consultant, and experienced restaurant operator. Email: tlong@belmarinnovations.com. Instagram and Twitter: @wvutimmy. Blog: What is that fly doing in my soup? http://whatflyinmysoup.com

Tim’s Whiskey and Cigar Recommendations

Buffalo Trace Straight Whiskey Bourbon

Buffalo Trace was a bit of a unicorn for years. Finding it was rare and when liquor stores did have it, it was gone within hours. However, it has mysteriously become more available this year, much to the delight of most bourbon lovers. It’s a wonderful bourbon. The nose has red apple and honey up front followed by licorice, marshmallow, and clove. The first sip brings honey, followed by cinnamon and oak notes. This bourbon is smooth and delightful. It finishes the same as it starts, with honey and red apple. At 90 proof and $29 in Virginia, it’s a steal and a great addition to any collection.

Perez Carrillo Encore Cigar 

A perfect match for the Buffalo Trace Bourbon in your hand. Once lit, this cigar opens with a smooth, medium-to-full-bodied profile with flavors of toasted oak, earth, and subtle spice. Hints of cocoa come through later in the smoke. This cigar’s flavors build gradually, rather than all at once, with a lingering spicy and a slightly creamy finish. It’s a refined, dependable cigar that would be a perfect day of golfing smoke. Enjoy.

This cigar, and many other fine cigars, are available at John Crouch Tobacconist at 215 King St. in Old Town Alexandria. Mention this article and get 10% off the purchase of this month’s recommended cigar.