By Doug Fabbioli

As a winemaker, I am often asked about my favorite wine or grape.  I love Zinfandel but it is difficult to consistently grow Zinfandel in Virginia. Lately I have been focusing on learning more ways to work with Tannat, so that is my current answer and read on to find out why.

In the past, it has been hard to make a full bodied, high tannin intense red wine in Virginia. Tannat has consistently been my solution with its thick skins, deep color and a firm tannin structure. Years ago, I made a conscious decision to lean into Tannat as a grape and wine so I could learn more and share what I’ve learned with customers and other winemakers.

Tannat has its home in the Pyrenees foothills, the mountains between France and Spain. It is mostly a blending grape, usually 30-60% in a wine blend. Uruguay has adopted Tannat as its national grape. Rosé, light reds, full bodied reds and port wines are all made from this grape in Uruguay. Loudoun County has been running a cultural winemaking exchange program with Canelones, Uruguay over the past few years learning about growing and making Tannat. This experience has increased our knowledge and awareness of the versatility of this grape and how to have better wines.

Time is a friend to Tannat. The tannins age nicely over time, making a 10-year-old wine still fresh and youthful. The acid keeps the fruitiness bright, extending the aging time.  Plus, a little Tannat in a blend of other reds can really spark up the finished wine.

Part of the challenge of Tannat has been that the tannic structure of it can be too heavy for some folks. I have been learning a few techniques from our winemaking friends in Uruguay to soften the structure a bit. Cooler temperatures during fermentation, harvesting a little earlier and pressing off skins sooner are some of these techniques. The idea is to soften the finish from a “bear claw” to a “bear paw,” firm but not sharp.

We did a tasting of Tannat with our wine club the other day, “Barrel, Bottle, and Blends.” It is important to taste wines with others and get feedback on styles, flavors and preferences. The attendees of these events know that I want honest feedback and are forthcoming, giving me the information I need to make good choices in the cellar. My question to them was should Tannat stand on its own or be part of a blend. The answer came back as YES to both!

If you are looking to understand wine a little more, and do tastings like this, consider joining a wine club. Some are set up to offer better access to the behind the scenes. At Fabbioli, we had our wine club decide on the final blend of our Serendipity Wine. This is a fun event of blending and deciding on a final fabulous wine. Find a wine club for you!

Also, if Tannat sounds interesting to you, keep buying and trying! Age some wines as they last a long time. Loudoun County is embracing Tannat as a varietal as well as in a blend. Charlottesville, Shenandoah Valley and other Virginia regions are embracing the grape as well. I have even made a sparkling Rosé from Tannat, so anything is possible with this grape! Learn more, taste more, bring more home. This is one of the grapes for our future. Thanks for sharing the journey with us. Salut!

About the Author: Farmer, winemaker, entrepreneur, educator, and leader, Doug Fabbioli has been accelerating the growth and quality of Virginia’s wine industry since 1997. With his wife Colleen, Doug is the owner/operator of Fabbioli Cellars in Leesburg, VA. He is the founder and director of The New Ag School, which focuses on teaching the next generation of farmers and agriculture-related leaders. No wonder they call Doug Fabbioli the Godfather of DC’s Wine Country.