By Bob Tagert

Last month we accepted an invitation from our friend James Diehl, Executive Director of the Nanticoke Heritage Byway, to join a FAM tour, or familiarization tour, of Sussex County in Southern Delaware including the towns of Seaford, Laurel, Lewes and Milton. Some of you Rehoboth beach regulars will remember that you pass through these areas on your way to the beach. The Byway, which includes the beautiful Nanticoke River, moves through an area that is rich in the history of transportation and economic interests of the region. Although the western Sussex County landscape may at first seem to be a quiet and subdued rural area with small towns, it encompasses many of Delaware’s historic treasures and important natural features. Visually, the route alternates between farmlands, wooded areas, and small towns, providing a variety of views and different types of landscapes. There are many recreational opportunities for hiking, bicycling, boating, and other activities.

The first thing that you will notice about the state of Delaware is how the landscape is very flat. This feature has contributed to the success of the farming community of Delaware. Our tour began at the riverfront town of Seaford. In 1939 the DuPont Company chose Seaford as the site of the first Nylon plant leaving Seaford as the “Nylon Capital of the World”.

The land at the head of the Nanticoke River has long been inhabited by mankind. The Nanticoke Indians and their ancestors have lived along the river for over 6,000 years. The first record of a European to explore the head of the Nanticoke was in 1608 when Captain John Smith set out exploring the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. Development along the river was slow partly due to friction between the Nanticoke Indians and the English settlers.

Phillips Landing Recreation Area is located near the confluence of the Nanticoke and Broad Creek. In May of 2007 a monument was placed at Phillips Landing to commemorate Captain John Smith’s exploration of the river and his meeting with the Nanticoke Chiefs. Phillips Landing is best known for bass fishing, bird watching, and a beautiful view of the wild rice beds across the river. The adjacent Nanticoke Wildlife Area conserves landscapes that appear much as they did 400 years ago.

We were fortunate enough to meet the first female Chief of the Nanticoke Tribe, Chief Natosha Carmine, during our stop at the Landing. We learned a bit more about the relationship between the Nanticokes and Captain John Smith from Natosha and Sterling Street who is also a member of the Nanticoke tribe and a local historian.

A little way up the Nanticoke River from Phillips Landing is the Woodland Ferry which is owned and operated by the Delaware Department of transportation. The Woodland Ferry transports vehicle and foot passengers between Seaford and Laurel. Traffic from nearby Bethel, Blades and even Galesville, Maryland use the Ferry as well.

Further up Broad Creek, a tributary of the Nanticoke, is the well-preserved 19th century shipbuilding and trading community of Bethel. Wooden sailing vessels were constructed by Bethel’s skilled ship carpenters until the early 20th century. The most significant class of Bethel craft were the Chesapeake sailing rams, which originated from this Broad Creek port. More than 30 of the Rams were constructed between 1870 and 1918. The town of Bethel is home to the Bethel Heritage Museum and is the closest town to Phillips Landing.

Surrounding the towns of Seaford and Bethel is the Nanticoke Wildlife Area. The Wildlife Area is made up of three large tracts of land totaling 4, 510 acres and is managed by the Delaware Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control, Division of Fish and Wildlife. Visitors can explore miles of primitive trails that are perfect for long hikes and bird watching, allowing you to experience the truly isolated wonders of nature.

One of the truly beautiful areas of Sussex County is Trap Pond State Park. Located near Laurel, Trap Pond is the largest surviving fragment of what was once an extensive wetland in what is now southwestern Sussex County. The state park features an extensive patch of bald cypress trees.

The bald cypress is a wetland tree adapted to areas of calm, shallow standing water. Trap Pond State Park is the northernmost park in North America that includes cypress and bald cypress, although the actual range continues further north, ending just north of Georgetown Delaware, in the Ellendale State Park. Note that we have Battle Creek Cypress Swamp in Calvert County, Maryland as well.

Many birds flock to stands of bald cypress, including great blue herons, owls, warblers, and pileated woodpeckers. Birdwatchers can also see hummingbirds and bald eagles at Trap Pond.

Trap Pond State Park’s campground has 142 total campsites including 130 with water and electric hookups, 10 primitive walk-in tent sites, and 2 primitive areas available only for youth groups, eight camping cabins and 2 yurts are also available for rent. Campsites with electric and water are open year-round, with the primitive sites open from March 1 until November 30. There is no swimming allowed in trap pond.

On the two nights we were in Delaware we were treated to two of their finest restaurants. Abbott’s Grill on Broad Creek in Laurel was truly a real treat. Abbott’s Grill takes pride in serving fresh, innovative American cuisine sourcing much of what they serve from local farms. Abbott’s is a very roomy restaurant with a lot of windows that let in light and opens the view onto the patio and Broad Creek.

The second restaurant was one we had been to a few years ago. Bon Appetit Restaurant in Seaford is a lovely restaurant located in a house. It is an intimate gathering that is always full. Reservations are a must. We enjoyed a great meal with great service and a gracious hostess. It reminded me of Le Refuge in Old Town Alexandria with its quaintness.

There are all sorts of fun spots to check out in this part of “The First State”. A few of our recommendations are the Brimming Horn Meadery in Seaford, the Bethel Market in Bethel and the Old Christ Church & Prayer Cove near Laurel. Services are still conducted in this historic place of worship.

Getting to Sussex County takes a little over 2 hours, depending on traffic. Once over the Bay Bridge take Route 50 to Route 404 and into Delaware. Take Route 16 south to Seaford. This is a good central point for your visit. Nice motels/hotels and many restaurants. We recommend the Hampton Inn in Seaford. It is reasonably priced, exceptionally clean with comfortable beds and the complimentary breakfast buffet is much more than a banana and a muffin.

Whether you want to make Sussex County a destination Road Trip or a swing by on your way to or from the beach, make a point to visit living history in Delaware…The First State aka The Blue Hen State aka The Diamond State aka The Small Wonder.