Exploring VA Wines, Wining & Dining

Romancing the Grape

By Doug Fabbioli

I was out at the store the other day and a clerk who I have known for decades asked me why there are so many wineries? He asked if there was a tax break or some hidden gem that makes people want to be in the business. I know there is no great tax advantage any better than other agriculture business, and I certainly know that it is a lot of work with a lot of specialized equipment and training. The best answer I could come up with was “chasing the romance”.

It starts in the vineyard. The long straight rows of vines that rise and fall with the contour of the land are beautiful.  As the season progresses, folks like to see the pruning of the vines, the small buds pop and grow into leaves, the long shoots develop, the clusters begin their ripening and eventually the crews picking the fruit for processing into wine. There have been a number of movies made romanticizing this process and the passion to grow and ultimately deliver the best grapes you can to the winery.

During the “crush season”, when the grapes are crushed and processed into young wine, is often hectic, exhausting, physically demanding and all-encompassing for the winemaking team. But the thrill of making the most of those grapes that were grown in your vineyard is beyond satisfying. But it’s not easy and you need to follow a well thought out plan using special equipment and a trained team, a team who commits their knowledge, passion and efforts into one combined goal of quality. It sounds like a romantic sport. This sport is welcoming to men and women alike. Anyone willing to work hard and are committed to teamwork, learning, and grit can often find a place to work in the cellars during crush. Some folks travel the world all year helping wineries through this process in the northern and southern hemispheres.

After the wines are made, the blending process is its own romance. This is more personal for the winemaker, but they may share a bit of this process with customers or staff to help keep the wines relevant and distinctive. Depending on the type of wine being made, many factors can make a big difference to the finished wine.  For example, a difference of say 3% of a different varietal added to the blend, or possibly using only French oak barrels can make a good wine superb. I describe the blending process as when the paint goes on the canvas. Without good wines, the blending process can be painful. But when all the vineyard and cellar work come together to a beautifully crafted finished product, the heart is warmed.

The ultimate romantic part of the wine is the enjoyment of this bottled art with family, friends or partner. This part can be a grand event, like a wedding or holiday family meal or a simple romantic meal for two when you are snowed in. The romantic stage can be shared with a gourmet meal or snack that was planned to pair with that certain wine. The wines may be part of a romantic excursion to taste at a winery or two and warm the heart with the atmosphere of where these wines were created.

So, many folks that have the passion and the means, are stepping into this industry in one way capacity or another. As a consultant in the industry, I am proud to have helped a number of folks find success in their newly owned vineyard and winery. When things work well, the passion and romance continue to grow. Thus, we have a growing, dynamic and well-regarded wine region here in Northern Virginia and the Mid Atlantic, full of talented passionate romantics chasing the goal of growing and making the best wine possible.

This month at Fabbioli Cellars, we are celebrating the romance with our monthly theme the movie “The Princess Bride.” Enjoy the tasting with themed food bites, specialty wine-based cocktails, mulled wine,  picturesque vineyard views and more. And be sure to “Have fun storming the castle!”

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