By Cindy McGovern
Don’t want to start the New Year with a cat not using the litter box? Things to Consider…Besides Panic!
Cats are known for being clean and fastidious creatures. Sure, you may have one that throws kitty litter all over as they dig, but generally, they use the litter box for its stated purpose. But what happens when they don’t?
Going outside the litter box or house soiling is the most common behavioral problem seen in cats and can cause stress for all involved. Finding a solution may take time to find and will depend on the cat and owner.
The first step anytime you notice a change in litter-box behavior is to consult your vet to rule out health issues. Inflammation of the urinary tract or crystals in the urine can make urinating painful and the cat can associate the litter box with pain as a result. Kidney and thyroid diseases as well as diabetes are also considerations, as cats often drink more water with these conditions and in turn urinate more often. I had a diabetic cat who drank copious amounts of water and not surprisingly urinated a copious amount as well. I had to change the litter more frequently to keep up.
Stomach or digestive issues may similarly make it painful for a cat to defecate or even decrease their bowel control. Mobility issues or cognitive decline can affect the cat’s ability to get to the litter box in time. And finally, stress from changes in daily routine, like a new work schedule; a new baby; or adding a new pet to the home can cause litter-box problems. Another consideration is what’s going on just outside the home that may be causing stress. Is there a stray cat or fox hanging around that your cat can see or even smell? Your cat may feel the need to mark his territory inside and begin spraying.
If you’ve eliminated health concerns, what’s next? Cats are sensitive to smell and touch and may not like the brand of litter being offered. When cat litter was ‘invented,’ options were limited to one brand: Kitty Litter, made from absorbent clay.
Sometimes cat litter can be physically uncomfortable for your cat to use. For instance, declawing your cat can cause pain immediately after surgery, but it can also cause chronic pain. This makes using traditional clay litter uncomfortable for declawed cats because its large, firm particles can get stuck between their already sensitive toes. The best litter for declawed cats is one with small particles and a soft texture.
While today there are numerous materials and textures available in cat litter, the two most common types are clumping and non-clumping litter. Clumping litter absorbs moisture more rapidly, turning urine into tight clumps that you can easily scoop and toss. It’s the cleanest option in terms of being able to remove the stinky bits quickly.
Non-clumping litter absorbs moisture more slowly. While it works to remove poop, urine won’t clump and will instead saturate the litter box. Instead of scooping, you have to dump all the litter and replace it every few days.
The choice between the two litter types is largely a matter of personal preference and your cat’s history. If you are adopting your cat, immediately switching from their normal brand to your preferred brand may require time. Try to find out what litter they’re used to and if you decide to switch, do so gradually.
Just as cats will be sensitive to touch, they are also sensitive to smells. A cat’s sense of smell is up to 40 times more sensitive than a human’s. What might seem like a lightly scented litter to you, maybe overwhelming and turn them off.
Cats may also be loath to share a litter box. The general rule for multiple litter boxes is to have one for each cat, plus one extra (e.g., two cats = three boxes). Placing them in private, quiet, separate areas can reduce territorial conflict and prevent one cat from blocking access to others. It is also crucial to keep all litter boxes clean, as cats dislike using a dirty or overcrowded box.
Then there is the box itself. My cats are diggers and I quickly realized I needed an extra large box with high sides versus the standard low-sided option. Covered boxes and mechanical cleaners may sound great, but a covered box can trap odors. A large or overweight cat may not have enough room to move in a covered box and understandably, won’t like it. Self-cleaning boxes can also be noisy and scary for your cat. Some also require your cat to jump into a raised box rather than step into a floor model. For older cats with mobility issues, that may be a non-starter.
Treatment of feline elimination disorders includes addressing the underlying anxieties and any associated aggressive behaviors, keeping the litter box as clean as possible, and determining what combination of litter, box, number of boxes, and location is preferred by your cat(s). This is going to be a process of trial and error, of testing different options to see which works best. If anxiety or marking is part of the problem, medication and behavior modification techniques may be needed. In extreme cases, you may consider calling in a pet behavioral specialist. Effective animal behaviorists will have expertise in behavior modification, the normal behavior of the species they’re treating, and teaching and counseling people, so they can effectively teach you how to understand and work with your pet. Most work through veterinary referrals, and they work closely with veterinarians to select the best behavioral medications.
Punishing your cat is not recommended and may even make the problem worse. Remember, just as you have habits and preferences, so does your cat. A happy cat will lead to a happy home and a happy new year!
About the Author: Cindy McGovern, Long-time King Street Cats volunteer and no stranger to litter box issues.
Sources:
https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/what-type-of-litter-is-best-for-your-cat
https://www.merckvetmanual.com/cat-owners/behavior-of-cats/behavior-problems-in-cats
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/cat-care/common-cat-behavior-issues/litter-box-problems