By Lani Gering
Yep, you read that headline correctly. This month we stayed right here in Old Town Alexandria. Too many things packed into the June calendar to take the time to “hit the road” so I “hit the trail”! The bike trail, that is…
Over the last 34 years I have spent a decent amount of time on the incredible bike trail that traverses throughout Alexandria and along the Potomac River both on foot and by bicycle. More so in the earlier years, but my curiosity about the new improvements these past few years drew me back to the trail last month. In doing my recon, I walked by what I’ve always referred to as the “Barbie Doll” Washington Monument and the “plaster” lips and eyes situated on the water at the foot of Canal Center. I bet I have been by this at least 200 times or more over the years and why I never actually stopped to take in the entire scope of these sculptures is beyond me. While I am late to the party, I’m very happy that I took the time to see what it was all about. As an aside, in my research I see that these sculptures have been written about more than a few times over the years but guess I didn’t pay attention. My bad.
It turns out that there is much more to the mini-monument, big eyes and lips than meets the eye from the path. Enter Promenade Classique.
Promenade Classique is a sculpture and water feature installation situated on 6-acres located between the TransPotomac Canal Center plaza at 44 Canal Street and Tide Lock Park on the water. Designed in 1986 by French sculpture artists Anne and Patrick Poirier and landscape architect M. Paul Friedberg, the sculpture garden functions as an art walk designed to lead you on a journey from the central office plaza down a terraced landscape toward the Potomac River. According to my findings, “the Poirier’s designed the park with a fascination for antiquity, myth, and classical ruins. The installation bridges the gap between America’s young history and the ancient, classical past of European architecture.” I love the connection of America’s young history – the Barbie Doll Monument – as it relates to our 250th birthday this month.
In the aforementioned research, I found a few different takes on the Promenade by various artists and other “culture” experts and I agree with parts of all of them. There are a few very technical descriptions that would interest you if you were an art curator but I prefer the simple version.
Modern Elements: A massive bronze lightning bolt anchors the upper pool and metaphorically “launches” the flow of water down through the terraced fountains and pools. The 20-foot drop in the site features cascading water fountains that flow past gargantuan sculptural fragments. — like the large, weeping marble eyes and lips spraying water.
Eyes & Lips Fountain: The installation features oversized, fragmented, weeping marble eyes and lips that include a distinct waterfall pool flanked by a large, all-seeing eye and giant marble lips that expel a spray of water during the warmer seasons. At the very bottom of the waterfall are more marble fragments of Roman columns, as well as eyes and lips.
Obelisk/Mini Washington Monument: At the water’s edge, the path terminates at the miniature Washington Monument obelisk. This centerpiece of the lower level is 30-foot-tall, 14-ton marble obelisk that serves as a direct visual replica of the original Washington Monument located on The Mall in D.C. across the river. Unfortunately, there isn’t a plaque with any information about the connection of this monument to the original, or any information about the entire installation for that matter, that I could find at the site.
Right next to the Promenade Classique is Tide Lock Park. The park was built around the historic Alexandria Canal. Operating from 1843 to the 1880’s, this seven-mile waterway linked Alexandria with the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, and the park preserves remnants of the old canal locks that brought ships from the canal’s elevation down to the Potomac. I don’t know how long it has been there, but there is a walking bridge that goes across the canal now. When I was biking the trail, you had to traverse around it. While the canal has an amazing history, it isn’t very photogenic and without water in it, kind of depressing. You can use your imagination after reading the informative sign at the location.
The park offers exceptional views of the Potomac River, the Maryland shoreline, and the D.C. skyline. The afternoon I was there, there were several people sitting on the benches reading and lunching as well as a nice number walking the path. I stopped for a while and watched a sailboat working its way up the river. It was very peaceful. And since it sits directly under the flight path for Reagan Airport, it’s a good spot to watch low-flying airplanes.
The park is open daily from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and keep in mind there are no public restrooms. If you don’t feel like taking a walk along the path, parking options are located nearby. I would suggest that you park in the garage or along Canal Street if you can find a place and start your adventure at the base of the bronze lightning bolt – looks more like an arrow to me – and work your way down to the water.
The photos accompanying this piece really don’t do the sculptures and water features justice. You really need to experience it in person to really appreciate this amazing piece of real estate along the path right here in our fair city.