Photo above courtesy of Twin Oaks Winery
By Bob Tagert
As all of our regular readers know, each month we seek out a new destination to visit and write about in this column but…we are changing it up this month.
Lani and I do the local distribution of the Old Town Crier ourselves each month. The destinations in our local market speak for themselves…most of you are well aware of where we drop them in Old Town, Del Ray, the West End, North Old Town, Fort Hunt, Eisenhower, National Harbor, etc., but this month I thought it might be fun for you to join us as we take you along on our peripheral delivery “From the Bay to the Blue Ridge”.
With me at 79 and Lani heading toward 73 this year, sometimes I wonder if I should submit our names to the Guiness World Book of Records in the quest to be tagged as the oldest paper boy and girl in the USA. Truthfully, doing the regional distribution is a great way to wind down from the 175 stops we make locally. While we tend to stick to the same M.O. each month, we have mixed it up depending on events and obligations in both areas in order to “kill two birds with one stone”. Hop in the truck and let’s go.
After we take care of our immediate area, we head out to the Blue Ridge where our stops include many of the wineries, distilleries, restaurants and various retail spaces where folks gather in the region. Following the trek to the hills, we head toward the Great Chesapeake Bay into Anne Arundel, Calvert and St. Mary’s counties with drops at various Visitor’s Centers, waterfront restaurants and various small town gathering places. These two destinations are delightful escapes from the madness of traffic which passes through our town. Each destination has a different personality. The Blue Ridge takes on a bit more sophisticated air while the Bay exudes a more laid-back, down-home feel. Both regions are full of history and mid-Atlantic beauty. Here are some highlights.
The Blue Ridge
When we head to the Blue Ridge, we usually take Route 66 west. Hitting the traffic right is critical to a good beginning. Once we get to Haymarket, we exit I-66 and take the back roads to Georgetown Road and Pearmund Cellars. One of Virginia’s premier wineries. This is also our drop off point for our stellar Middleburg distribution partner, Meg Mullery, who meets us to pick up the bundles for the majority of our Fauquier County distribution. This saves us a lot of miles. From here we pick up Route 11/211 and head for Rappahannock County and the quiet town of Sperryville.
Sperryville is a beautiful little town. The reason we added this area to our distribution route 20 or so years ago is in an old apple packing warehouse where Rick Wasmund created Copper Fox Distillery in 2005. Rick and his warehouse folks, headed up by the very enthusiastic Bruce, give exceptional service and educational tours. In addition to having some pretty tasty libations, the warehouse itself is a living museum with tours daily.
Sometimes we turn our delivery ‘day’ into two days with a stay at Rappahannock Getaway’s River Cottage (see their ad in this issue). Located in the middle of Main Street is a little blue cottage that is perfect in our estimation. The deck located right on the Thornton River and the outdoor shower make for a great summertime stay. Right next to the Cottage is the local morning gathering spot, Before and After. A perfect place for coffee and light breakfast and the purchase of a bottle of wine for the evening. Sperryville is also home to the River District Market Place and The Corner Store. Both places are not to be missed. The beauty of Sperryville is, if you stay at the Cottage, you can get out and walk to every destination in town. There is an amazing little walking path that follows the river and passes by pretty much every restaurant and shop in town as well as the aforementioned distillery and a couple of craft breweries.
From here we are back on Route 211 as we head over the mountains at Thornton Gap and end up down the other side at Shadow Mountain Escape in Page County. This “couples only” compound, owned and operated by Karen and Ralph Riddle, is a collection of four timber framed cabins nestled literally in Jewel Hollow at the base of the Shadow Mountain tracks and are available for rent. If you are looking for a place to elope, they have a perfect package for you. Great folks and incredible place to get-a-way.
Shadow Mountain is also where we drop off the bundles to be delivered into Luray. Our thanks to Karen for this. This eliminates some back tracking and saves us some time.
Speaking of back tracking, after the Shadow Mountain drop, we head back through Sperryville and this is when Lani picks up local honey and cider from her pals at the Corner Fruits and Crafts road side stand. Another beauty of the area during the summer and fall are stands like this that dot the roadways.
Passing by Sperryville, we take the exit to Route 522 and head to Flint Hill, another small town that seems to be about four blocks long. Here you will find the Dark Horse Pub, a great Irish restaurant and local watering hole here, and the popular Blue Door Kitchen. Not a lot of shopping opportunities here.
Continuing on Route 211, we head toward Warren County and Front Royal with stops at Rappahannock Cellars and the Blue Ridge Country Store in Huntly along the way. Be sure to treat yourselves to a stop at both. You will be amazed at what you can find in the Country Store. Please say hello to Jack from us when you stop in.
On to Front Royal, home of Spelunkers and one of the best burgers and shakes you will ever experience, with a side trek to one of the newest wineries in the area, Reitano, we head back toward Route. 66.
After our drop at the iconic Apple House in Linden and the purchase of apple donuts and the best baked beans in the DMV, we are on our way back into Fauquier County and on to Marshall.
Marshall is known for its historic village atmosphere, local business the likes of the original Red Truck Bakery, and connection to Chief Justice John Marshall, after whom it is named. Our primary drop here is the Marshall Diner. This is where the local folks hang in the morning and folks driving through (like us) stop for a down-home lunch.
From here we head back toward Route 66 and The Plains. This historic town is forever tied to the annual Gold Cup Steeplechase races at Great Meadow. Here you will find two delightful restaurants – The Rail Stop, a local favorite that has been there for many years and The Bistro@The Porch. Both are very good and pack a lot of history.
From the Plains we pick up Route 66 and begin the return trip, hoping that traffic has subsided, at least we will be going against rush hour.
Side Note: Check out the Blue Ridge Whiskey Wine Loop ad on the inside back cover of this issue and get a visual of this enchanting area.
The Bay
This distribution isn’t quite as “scenic” since we have to contend with Routes 4 and 5 but the destinations are worth it. The following day, we load the truck up and head south down Route 4 toward Solomons Island. Route 4 is a way better drive than 5 but is still a major artery for Southern Maryland folks commuting to the District so do yourself a favor and don’t head down anytime close to rush hour.
Our first stop on Route 4 is just past south of Prince Frederick in a strip center with the most dominant signage being the Mr. Tire sign. A few doors from there is Jerry’s Place seafood restaurant. It is a very popular restaurant in the area and known for its iconic Grand-Dad Crab Cake. This monster is a 16 ounce perfectly seasoned and lump crab cake with no filler. It ain’t cheap but you can feed three people!
There are a few side adventures on the way continuing south. After leaving Jerry’s, you quickly come to a traffic light that marks Broomes Island Road. Turning right, you will immediately come upon Linda’s Plant & Jake’s Market. This is a must stop for great plants, vegetables and local folks. Continuing on Broomes Island Road, you will come to Gray’s Road which will take you to the Battle Creek Cypress Swamp Sanctuary, a protected nature preserve featuring one of the northernmost stands of bald cypress trees in the U.S. and accessible via a boardwalk and nature center. A little further down Broomes Island Road you can pick up Mackall Road that will take you to Perigeaux Vineyards & Winery and a bit further to Jefferson Patterson Park & Museum. From here head back but make a turn at Parran Road which will take you back to Route 4.
Continue south and watch for the signs for Solomons island. This peninsula that ends at the confluence of the Patuxent River and the Chesapeake Bay has long been a prime destination not only from locals but anyone that likes being on the water. Solomons Island is our major distribution point in Calvert County and we tend to spend a lot of time here, especially when I had the sailboat at Calvert Marina. Even though those days are gone, we are in town often.
On top of the many restaurants and shops on the island where we frequent and drop the issue, our major drop is at the Calvert Marine Museum. This interactive museum is fun for all ages. The exhibits are a great insight to the Bay’s natural and cultural history including exhibits on paleontology, estuarian life and the maritime heritage of the area. Featuring aquariums, a boat basin, and outdoor displays like the river otter habitat belonging to Chessie Grace and Calvert are a must see.
The Annmarie Sculpture Gardens & Art Center is a fabulous stop to include in your road trip. No matter the time of year the grounds are beautiful and full of activities for young and old alike.
Back in the early days, the infamous Tiki Bar was the only reason to drive to Solomons. Today there are numerous fine restaurants that line the Patuxent River and Back Creek. It is a narrow island so water is only a block or two away from all of the venues.
There really are no favorite restaurants in Solomons because they all are great and unique. The Pier is one of our go-to places since we are sort of “regulars”. It sits out on the Patuxent River, thus giving you unrestricted views up and down the river. On a breezy day, particularly from the east or west, you will see beautiful sailboats reaching up and down the river.
Across from The Pier and on Back Creek is The Lighthouse Restaurant. The original Lighthouse burned to the ground in 2006. In 2013 the rebuild began and today is a destination on the creek. It has the stern of a power boat as the bar in the casual bar area with a garage door that acts as a wall that opens up in nice weather for a beautiful view of the creek. The food is very good and the Lighthouse, Pier and Tiki Bar anchor this end of the island. I must add, although I have never been, there is a relatively new restaurant called Trifecta at the end of the island at the Harbor Island Marina. It is on the calendar for this month!
While we have drops at CD Café, Angler’s Inn, and the Ruddy Duck there are many other drinking and dining options in Solomons – Bugeye Grill, La Vela Italian Restaurant at Zhanhisers Marina, Boomerangs BBQ for starters.
Now it is time to leave Solomons and head over the Thomas Johnson bridge to St. Mary’s County and Leonardtown. The TJ Bridge was built in 1977, prior to that you had to cross by boat. As you cross the bridge heading toward Route 5, the views are fantastic. Jersey Walls line the road so your view in unimpeded.
Crossing over Route 235 continue until you get to Route 5 and take a right. Leonardtown is short distance away.
Not only is Leonardtown the county seat of St. Mary’s County it is also a pretty happening town. In the last decade, some new and delightful businesses have opened up. Sweet Bay Restaurant and Bar brings a bit of city style to this country town. The Rex caters to a younger crowd with some good eats and drinks and live music. The Social Coffeehouse & Cocktail Bar has it all covered. Fresh coffee and eats in the morning and cocktails at the end of the work day. All three of these are located around the Town Square along with three or four other eateries including some of the best pizza we have had at The Slice House. Our last eatery stop is The Front Porch on the fringes of the Square.
The Old Jail Museum Visitors Center is an informative tour. A few streets off of the main drag is Shepherd’s Old Field Market. This large indoor marketplace has over 90 locally owned shops and services in a repurposed historic building, offering unique gifts, home decor, artisan goods, and specialty foods. There is also a great beer joint attached to it. This place has it all.
Leonardtown hosts a plethora of fun events year-round so check out their social media for the latest. If you want to spend the night, the Executive Inn, located just off of the Square is a great option. Reasonable rates and comfortable rooms in the heart of the action.
On to our very last stop before heading back to Old Town, take Hollywood Road out of town toward Route 235, make a right and proceed a short way to Clarke’s Landing Road. Turning left, follow it to the end to Stoney’s Clarke’s Landing. This is a popular landing spot for locals and us. It sits on the water at the exit of Cuckhold creek and looks out on the Patuxent River and in the distance the TJ Bridge is quite clear. Beautiful view. If you go there, tell owner Jeannie Stone that the Old Town Crier sent you.
