By Bob Tagert
For this month’s Road Trip we decided to stay close to home and visit two of our favorite places…Annapolis aka Naptown and Eastport aka MRE to the locals in Maryland. One of the reasons why we have such a close relationship with this area is because it is part of our marketing area…hence the moniker on our cover, From the Bay to the Blue Ridge. There are other reasons for our close relationship and one is sailing. I have a sailboat in Solomons and we occasionally sail to Annapolis. Annapolis is also considered the “Sailing Capital of the World”, home to the Naval Academy and home to the Annapolis Sailboat Show – the largest in-water boat show in the world.
Annapolis has historical significance for many reasons. Most significantly it was the capital of Maryland as well as the country’s capital when the Treaty of Paris, ending the Revolutionary War, was signed there. All four Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence had impressive homes in Annapolis, which still stand today.
Our intention was to take a nice day trip to visit some favorite places and maybe run into some old friends while discovering what is new.
Our first stop was, of course, the waterfront. This is where you can find metered parking and Ego Alley. Ego Alley is not an alley in the traditional sense of the word; rather than a walkway, it is a narrow waterway that spills out into Spa Creek. The name “Ego Alley” comes from the queue of expensive boats that parade through the waterway on evenings and weekends. Yes, I have sailed in Ego Alley and tied up to the bulkhead to spend the night. It is a great front seat view of the incredible action on the waterfront.
When we were there, it was still February…sunny with a chill in the air but nice enough for sweater and vest. This time of year, the action in Ego Alley is limited as most boats are stored on land or south for the winter. However, the bonus is that the crowds have not arrived yet. We were there on a Thursday and there was a school group on a field trip and a hand full of strollers walking the brick sidewalks. After we walked over to the bulkhead to pay respects to Ego Alley (kind of like returning to the beach and saying “hi” to the surf), we walked to the other side of the Alley to have lunch at a relatively new restaurant…The Choptank.
The Choptank is about two years old and the newness is clear. With white tile floors and a very large white marble bar, there was plenty of light to see and gaze out the wall-to-wall windows that look out over the harbor. After securing my first rum drink of the day, I ordered steamed clams in a bacon and herb broth. This dish was incredible. Lani, my companion, ordered the fried chicken sandwich which was huge, delicious and crunchy. Not only is Maryland noted for its’ seafood, but also its’ fried chicken.
Retracing our steps to City Dock, we visited a favorite restaurant and former advertiser in the Old Town Crier…Middleton Tavern. One of the original taverns and bars in Annapolis, Middleton’s is a favorite of locals, tourists and midshipmen from the academy. Here I enjoyed another rum while Lani ordered her favorite, an oyster shooter and a National Bohemian aka Natty Bo draft. The shooter consists of a flavorful oyster in a plastic shot glass with cocktail sauce accompanied by another shot cup of beer. Slainte!
From here we went next door to McGarvey’s, another legendary bar famous for their steamed mussels – they are Lani’s go-to when we dine here. I ordered another rum – you starting to see a pattern here? We had a great time talking with our bartender, Marty Gardner, who has been here for 28 years. When you get it right, there is no reason to change. We had a great time talking about the Annapolis of old like I like to talk about Old Town Alexandria back in the day.
From here we took a short stroll around City Dock and up Main Street, the center of the city. This is a great street full of shops and eateries. In my opinion, this is one of the prettiest Main Streets in the DMV – especially in the spring, summer and fall. While everything looks the same for the most part, just like Old Town, some of the merchants have changed. It wouldn’t be a trip to Naptown without a stop at A.L. Goodies General Store who celebrate 40 years in business this year. If they don’t have what you want, you don’t need it. A new place (only 2 months old) that caught our eye is The Boat House. It is a very eclectic, contemporary, mid-century modern furniture store with a nautical theme and worth stopping in.
Our next stop was across Spa Creek and into Eastport, or rather, the Maritime Republic of Eastport. A little quick history here: Twenty-five years ago, the bridge connecting Annapolis to Eastport closed for some months for needed repairs. The closure created massive traffic reroutes and delays. Rather than panic, the leaders of Eastport got together and decided to create a diversion. They retreated to Leon’s Barber shop and over a few beers, decided to declare war on Annapolis and secede from the mainland by forming the Maritime Republic of Eastport. They rounded up about 50 re-enactors and complete with musket and cannon attacked Annapolis from the banks of Eastport.
The organizers went further, by organizing events and fundraisers. They even had credentials made up for certain officers. Lani and I were made the “Official Ambassadors to the Commonwealth”. For us, this was an honor. The end result was, instead of letting a hardship create problems…they rallied and actually raised money for charities and to this day there is an annual November event to remember the bridge closing…The Slaughter on the Water. They had Yale Cordage make them a 1700-foot rope that they use for a tug-of-war across spa Creek. Groups from Annapolis against groups from Eastport. As the MRE motto goes…”Up the Republic”.
The first stop in Eastport was Boatyard Bar and Grill. Ordering another rum, we began to reminisce of those days. Next thing we heard was a voice, “I thought I might find you guys here”. It was Kevin Brooks, good friend and one of the founders of MRE as well as The Eastport Oysters Boys, a fantastic band that is still kicking today. Do yourself a favor and check them out on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube or www.oysterboys.com. This made our day – evening by this time – but we still had one more stop.
It was hard not to order the Eastport Steamer Sampler at Boatyard but we saved ourselves for a couple orders of the Baltimore-Style Steamed Shrimp (1/2 lb of large gulf shrimp smothered in onions served with Old Bay, cocktail sauce and drawn butter) at one of the oldest bars in Eastport – Davis Pub. This place was packed (a lot of local regulars) but we were invited to sit at the only two empty chairs in the place, and share a table with two gentlemen. Time for another rum and the aforementioned shrimp. We engaged in good conversation, exchanged emails and then met their friend, the publisher of Chesapeake Bay Magazine.
I am guessing that those of you who don’t know me are wondering about those rum drinks. Lani, being of sound mind and body, booked us a room at the Scotlaur Inn B&B while we were reminiscing with Marty at McGarvey’s. The Scotlaur is a small B&B above Chick & Ruth’s Diner on Main Street in Annapolis. Chick & Ruth’s has always been our go-to for breakfast on overnight stays and we have always wanted to stay in the Inn so this was a win-win. A very comfortable room in the heart of the town with a good down-home breakfast for a mere $175.00.
For new people, Annapolis is a wonderful experience. For those of us returning, it is a place of wonderful memories from boat shows, to sailing to barhopping till the wee hours.
Our day out only touched a very small part of what Annapolis and Eastport have to offer. We hope, however, that maybe we enticed you to treat yourself to some time there this spring.
It was a perfect Road Trip.